In my experience, it’s usually a term used to sell you something. Often, it’s a ploy to get you to shell out the money for a luxury good under the guise that it’s somehow good for you.

If a therapist is telling it to you, it seems a bit lazy to me. Really, i think they should be saying something along the lines of “make sure to keep some of your time intentionally set aside to do things you enjoy”.

Looks like wikipedia has good lists.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_EDA_software

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_free_electronics_circuit_simulators

I’ve never used it, but I am intrigued by fritzing, can anyone recommend?

Those 2 are for sure on my good list. Also Bon Appétit and serious eats, too

CAD is a bit like programming, there’s a lot of ways to do any given task. That can make it tricky if you are doing some tutorials that use one workflow, and then start doing tutorials that use a different workflow.

If you want to learn it, do yourself a favor and take time to find a tutorial that goes from start to finish doing the type of project you want to do so you don’t get frustrated when you get midway through.

Like others said, if you are used to doing something in a different CAD software, you might find that the same workflow is clunky in FreeCAD, but if you start out with a workflow that works well in FreeCAD, you are fine.

Volumetric leafy greens are the worst, lol. I guess salad greens don’t matter too much cause it doesn’t really change anything, but something like basil, you probably want relatively accurate. Same thing with shredded cheese, it can be a huge difference to the recipe if you grate the cheese through the large holes on a box grater vs something like a microplane.

I think, especially in American recipes, cups are basically the missing link between “grandma recipes” and modern “accurate” recipes. Everyone has gotten recipes handed down that call for “some onion” or “1 handful of nuts”. It’s fine for lots of recipes: no one is going to actually measure out 200 grams of onion for a stirfry, they’ll just grab an onion and chop up the whole thing.

I’d consider that within the margin of error for a volumetric measurement. Especially if you are being lazy like me and measuring something like milk by weight.

Funny enough, you made me go check my kitchen scales. They report in grams, ounces, and weirdly milliliters and fluid ounces. I used my scale that reports in hundredths of a gram to measure out exactly 1 oz mass. I then placed it on my other three scales to see what it would read. 2 of them correctly reported that they weren’t quite at 1 fluid ounce, while the other said it was. I never actually put my scales in ounce mode, though.

If you live in a place that uses cups, the container the food comes in typically has both measurements as part of the nutrition facts on the back label. US nutrition facts are per-serving not per-100g like the EU, so for flour for example, it will have “serving size 1/4 cup (30 g)”. The main exceptions are items meant to be eaten in their entirety like a candy bar or, unfortunately, liquids, which give you milliliters.

Stop getting recipes from whatever random source pops up in Google, and start getting recipes directly from sources you trust. Reputable test kitchens usually use mass for recipes, and at least the ones I look at will also include volumetric measurements for people who prefer them.

The thing with baking, though, is that there are many ingredients that require below gram level accuracy, and for those, volumetric measurements are more accurate for most people who have scales with a gram resolution.

Seriously, i don’t know why all these people keep saying they do volume for liquids. Unless you are using a skinny graduated cylinder, liquid measuring cups could easily get you 10% off your target.

And stuff like honey? No way I’m measuring volume for that.

A fluid ounce of water is an ounce of weight

Chest freezer with an aftermarket temperature controller. Commonly called a “keezer” in the homebrewing community.

I hear you on the streaming sticks. 10 years ago, you could throw a Chromecast in your suitcase, plug it into a hotel TV, and cast anything you wanted from your phone. Now, if you try to do that, you have to set the Chromecast up through the Google home app, tell it what “room” it’s in, but then you can’t cause you arent at your “home”, so you have to set up a new “home”, and then that doesn’t usually work, so you just quit and read a book instead.

Seems like a lot of great changes

My dream is to one day have a setup like this. Like others said, humidity and heat in a greenhouse are 2 big concerns. They make all kinds of automated systems for opening vents, etc.

If your primary goal is growing in a contained area to keep pests away (vs. needing to really keep the space warm in winter or something), you best bet could be a hoop house. Basically you can drive rebar or fence posts into the ground, and then arch something (pvc pipes commonly) from one side of the space to the other. You’d then pull plastic sheathing overtop. Those are commonly used to get growing started in early spring and extend growing in the fall. When it’s warm enough, they basically roll up the material. You could do something similar but still have a structure of chicken wire or netting or something to keep animals away.

If you actually want to keep the space warm to grow in the winter, you might want more permanent walls with better insulation, like double walled polycarbonate.

Another thing to consider is water. If you have a greenhouse next to your house, you don’t want rain that falls on it to direct water to your house’s foundation.

Searching around, it seems like stucco and high humidity may not work well together. Personally, I’d be a little concerned about algae/moss growth on my walls if I had high humidity on stucco.

I love the look of repurposed windows/doors for greenhouses, and I’ve even seen them advertised for that purpose at resale shops, but it’s really important to be careful about lead paint if you want to do that. Lead was the primary white pigment for a long time, and since windows/doors are often trimmed white, if they are older than 1978 (in the US, EU was 2003, though many member states had their own laws previously), it could be lead. Lead testers are fairly cheap if you want to go this route.

The right side is where people farm and the left is more ranching. Obviously, there’s farms everywhere, but out west, it has to be irrigated, which can only be done cost effectively in certain locations.

If you know where to look, you can even make out rivers. The Platte river crosses the great plains to Denver (the big blue area).

In case you aren’t American, that line is the Great Plains. It’s basically the dividing line between where it historically gets enough rain to farm, and where it’s dry enough that farming gives way to ranching.

Does anyone have specific recommendations for a light to use as a lantern?

I have a good headlamp for hiking/camping/etc, but I’d like a little flashlight to use as a backup/as a stationary lantern around camp. I’ve never used a diffuser on a flashlight, so I’m not sure if they are all created equal, or if some are better than others. Momentary brightness isn’t that important to me, but decent efficiency, a red light, and light weight are important. Bonus points for using 18650 since that would make it compatible with my headlamp.

As a non Australian, I didn’t know wittenoom, but I’m pretty sure I know of it from the old videos of asbestos shoveling competitions that went around a few years back.

I think the smallest Australian town I know is oodnadatta, but I don’t know why I know it. I also had to look up if “nullarbor” was a city, or just a place name, so idk if that counts.